Continuing Chanel’s tradition of over-the-top fashion show spectacles which has seen everything from launching rockets to icebergs, this season’s Cruise 2019 collection took place on a 500-foot-long ocean liner anchored within the Grand Palais. Reminding one of the Titanic or the Italian trans-Atlantic liner Rex, featured in “Amarcord,” the 1973 comedy-drama directed by Federico Fellini the ship was named La Pausa, after the summer home of Gabrielle Chanel in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin near Monaco. I mean, is there a more appropriate place to present a Cruise Collection than on a cruise?
Instead of setting sail and shooting off to far-flung places, such as Havana or Seoul as in previous seasons, Chanel presented its Cruise 2019 collection in France - a decision also taken by homegrown luxury titans Dior and Louis Vuitton (as well as Gucci) showing later this month. Is keeping local a reaction to global uncertainty? Or is it a clear vote of confidence in Emmanuel Macron and the direction he is leading France which has persuaded Parisian maisons to stay? Remember Macron threw a dazzling reception for French fashion designers at the Elysée Palace last October declaring his own support for the industry. While firmly anchored in Paris, the Chanel La Pausa, proudly lit underneath artificial stars and a night sky, gave promise to its audience for adventure and discovery. A single vessel bringing together an international community desperate for desire (and to be desired).
Before the blast of 80’s tunes, remixed by maestro Michel Gaubert, it was the echo of seagulls and creaking ropes which filled the air, as well as the impatient fog horns which announced departure.
Model of the moment Adut Akech first stepped out onto the dock wearing a pair of loose striped trousers, a casual white sweatshirt branded with red interlocking C’s, and white Mary Jane flats. Simple, unpretentious. Clothes which serve more of a function than a transcending statement for the ages, which is expected from the more commercial Cruise collections.
Elements of the swinging sixties were featured such as A-line mini-dresses, reminiscent of the previous pre-fall collection on the harbour of Hamburg, as well as exaggerated 1980s silhouettes, plumped with broad shoulders. The nautical theme was present throughout with patterns of jagged waves, maritime signal flags and a leitmotif of lifebuoys. Key trends were proclaimed, most notably, the unashamed return of the white tights, cobalt blue sunglasses, and the quintessential French accessory: the skewed beret which was the final dot on the “i” for the overwhelming majority of the looks. Particular emphasis was placed on the waist and midriff - sometimes offering a peak of exposed skin. Being a surprisingly covered up collection, the Cruise collection is no longer exclusive to the sunny shores of far away. For those tropical holiday getaways, there is now “Coco Beach” - launching June 2018- which will consist exclusively of swimsuits, bikinis, cover-ups, denim, and espadrilles.
For the finale, Lagerfeld came out and took his bow with Virginie Viard, his longtime studio designer. Afterward, the buzzing audience was invited on board to dance, eat, be merry and reflect upon a collection intended for the thrill of exploration and open waters.
To students in Paris, as well as Chanel clients and staff, the collection will be displayed inside the vessel over the next three days to discover! Go go go!