Salzburg Jewelry at its Finest
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On a rainy summer’s day in Salzburg, I made my way down the cobbled streets passing by elegant guests of the Salzburg Music festival decked out in the finest fashions - some in Lanz dirndls, some in Armani -Privè that is. Music lingers in the air due to the live Jederman performance held at the Domplatz; the wind carries a faint whiff of freshly ground coffee from the Café Tomaselli. Walking down the high street (The Getreidegasse) I walk by H&M, Mango, Zara, Claire’s… how out of place they look with their 70% off sales plastered across windows of 1000 year old buildings.
Fortunately authenticity and heritage still prevail in what distinguishes Austria from many other countries, and that is thanks to the immensely skilled artisans and visionaries, including Hartwig Thurner - one of the most renowned jewelers in the country, who I had the privilege to interview and observe experience what it takes to create a truly magnificent piece of jewelry.
Stepping into his workshop - in Mozart’s former residence mind you - (Yes, as in the real W.A Mozart) you are faced with some of the most exquisite gold and silver jewelry you have ever seen. Some pieces antique aged hundreds of years, some freshly handcrafted ready for a full life of glitz and glamor.
After being adjusted to the plethora of precious metals and stones, you realize that the workshop is just behind the counter accompanied with all the necessary tools: pliers (Number 2,4,5, and 7, all of which I failed to distinguish between), hammers, blow torch, files, tweezers, the whole works. For today - this was my (pretend) workstation. Having the rare opportunity to witness and even help create jewelry for myself was extremely exciting especially when learning/observing someone who has mastered his craft.
Mr. Thurner started his career in 1978 and believes that passion for whatever you are doing is vital when you want to achieve something of greatness and to be inspired to continue to work in a field for almost 40 years. He and his team of 5 handcraft the products at this workshop, where he is part of every piece he sells from start to finish.
A simple pair of earrings - I chose to create a Edelweiss pair - takes hours of hard work (well my amateur level slowed down the process) something we as consumers tend to forget about (especially today) where everything is available all the time everywhere. Let me briefly outline the process: You have to melt the silver, shape the silver, cut the silver, file the silver, BURN the silver, COOL THE SILVER, POLISH THE SILVER, CLEAN THE SILVER - of course only with a calm, strong hand. The clumsy need not apply. However, this long process makes you realize the incredible amount of skill, precision, and patience required for a single piece. Mr. Thurner kindly reminded me that earrings are one of the easiest pieces to create (I personally felt like a real life jeweler with my leather apron and visor!). I can’t even imagine the work put into a Salzburger Herz a “Salzburg Heart” - Mr. Thurner's world famous signature piece.
[/av_textblock][/av_one_half][av_one_half min_height='' vertical_alignment='' space='' custom_margin='' margin='0px' padding='0px' border='' border_color='' radius='0px' background_color='' src='' background_position='top left' background_repeat='no-repeat'][av_textblock size='' font_color='' color='']This is something with world wide demand and a favorite for both locals and tourists. These hearts are individual stones, which can be put on a strand of pearls or other necklace or a bracelet and would look fantastic with the previously mentioned Dirndl or Armani Privé dress. The smaller hearts are extremely sought after for the under 25s while bigger models catch the eye of a riper, a la Grand Dame audience. A Salzburger Herz is an instant upgrade for any occasion as it marries tradition, modernity, and is above all unique.
This brings me to the element of unique. Mr. Thurner explained to me that it is a shame that while the youth still do buy jewelry, it is rare that they ask him where is a piece from? Who made the jewelry? Price and aesthetic dominate a purchasing decision and he says this is a looming problem for artisans in all industries.
“Ignoring the past and the process of how a product is made is a key element which is sadly forgotten. It is the human element which matters. Everyone of my pieces is individual, made with care and passion and in a way tells a story. I hope the youth will start to look at these aspects again in not only jewelry but also in other industries.”
He goes onto say “Of course you can buy a fake Salzburger Herz from a manufacturer in the far east but I don't consider them as competition- we are selling different products and experiences. This is why my customers value my work.”
Even in a globalized world, mothers and daughters continue to flock to his specialized jewelry store as they know the real value behind the hand worked jewelry. I question if he thinks small jewelers will continue to succeed in the future. After a brief interruption of a loyal customer requesting to have her ring altered, Mr. Thurner answers:
“There is a lot of interest of young people to become jewelers and artisans. However there is no support for these people. Government systems makes it difficult and unattractive for youths to take up an apprenticeship and to learn the trade. It is extremely difficult to find a successor these days… It also depends if craftsmanship and quality will be valued in the future. It is honestly tough to say.”
Imagining Salzburg, or any city for that matter, without artisans and independent jewelers like Mr. Thurner would be a cultural tragedy as these are the people who literally create the image of a city not to mention dreams, heirlooms, memories, heritage in literally their own hands. The human element should never be ignored.
If you catch yourself wandering those same cobbled streets in Salzburg be sure to visit one of Mr. Thurner’s stores and see an authentic Salzburg Herz for yourself!
Theatergasse 2, 5020 Salzburg
Hagenauerplatz 2, 5020 Salzburg
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